Understanding Geosensory Tasting in Wine Appreciation

3 min

Discover the transformative approach of geosensory tasting, focusing on mouthfeel and texture to enhance wine appreciation.

The Evolution of Wine Tasting Techniques

In the world of wine appreciation, traditional methods have undergone significant transformations. A few years ago, I incorporated saliva analysis into my tasting protocol after being inspired by Jacky Rigaux and Jean-Michel Deiss’s work on geosensory tasting. This method emphasizes a sensory experience rooted in the 19th century, where early wine connoisseurs focused on visual aspects and mouthfeel over aroma. Rigaux’s book, Geosensorial Tasting, sparked this journey for me, highlighting how past tastings were often conducted using a tastevin—a small cup that limited aromatic perception but enhanced the focus on texture and persistence.

The 20th century brought about a pivotal shift in tasting methodologies. In the 1960s, Jules Chauvet introduced an olfactory-based approach that changed everything. This new technique not only emphasized aromas but also sought to distinguish wines based on their geographical origins—essentially supporting France’s appellation contrôlée system. Standardized glasses and a lexicon for aromatic compounds became essential tools for oenologists and educators alike. However, as Rigaux pointed out, this evolution led to difficulties in differentiating authentic terroir wines from industrial counterparts. Thus emerged a resurgence in appreciating wines through mouthfeel and texture.

Rediscovering Terroir Through Sensation

As I delved deeper into this new approach, I realized its potential to reveal the true essence of wines—whether they are vin de lieu (wines of place) or otherwise. By focusing less on sight and aromas and more on trigeminal sensations such as temperature and touch, I began to recognize subtle differences between wines that had previously eluded me. Understanding the quality of saliva produced during tasting became crucial; it reflects our physiological response to specific wine compounds like acidity and tannin.

Scientific research has also enriched this understanding. Works such as Neuroenology by Gordon M Shepherd explore how our brains perceive flavors in wine. Gabriel Lepousez’s studies delve into salivation dynamics—how different glands react to various wine components—and what that reveals about viticulture practices linked to terroir. These inquiries have fundamentally shifted my perspective on tasting; it’s not just about what we taste but how our bodies respond to these experiences.

Mindfulness: A New Approach to Tasting

To truly connect with a wine’s DNA, I adopted mindfulness techniques including yoga and meditation. This change allowed me greater relaxation and focus while tasting, enhancing my ability to perceive nuances within each glass. As I worked on understanding my digestion better, I became more receptive during tastings—a transformation that yielded remarkable results.

With this mindful approach rooted in geosensory principles, I’ve discovered an unparalleled joy in tasting wines. At a time when moderate consumption is scrutinized, embracing this holistic practice can significantly benefit both our well-being and appreciation for fine wines.

Exploring Anjou’s Vin de Lieu

This month’s exploration takes us back to my roots in Anjou—the Loire Valley’s treasure trove for vin de lieu enthusiasts. Here, dedicated vignerons emphasize terroir-driven expressions of Chenin Blanc among other varietals. A standout recommendation is Benoît Courault’s Les Guinechiens 2021 priced at $63 from Golden Hour Wine. This old-vine Chenin Blanc exemplifies the essence of its schistous hillside origins.

The resulting mouthfeel from Les Guinechiens is captivating: thick yet refreshing with lingering umami notes that offer satisfaction with every sip. It encapsulates what a complete and vibrant wine should be—a true representation of its terroir that invites further exploration.

Conclusion: The Future of Wine Appreciation

As we move forward in our appreciation for wine, returning to fundamental sensory experiences can deepen our connection with each bottle we enjoy. By focusing on mouthfeel and texture rather than solely relying on olfactory cues or visual assessments, we can uncover layers of complexity inherent in every pour.

This renewed perspective not only enhances personal enjoyment but also fosters respect for winemakers who dedicate themselves to showcasing their land’s unique characteristics through their craft.

Photo by Olusola O on Unsplash

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