Neapolitan Chef Turns Cannavacciuolo’s Bistro into Pizzeria

9

Discover Alchemiae in Novara, where Neapolitan pizzaiolo Luca Mendozza redefines pizza with tradition and innovation, blending flavors and community.

The Art of Pizza: Alchemiae’s Culinary Renaissance in Novara

A New Dawn in Piazza Martiri

In the heart of Novara, the vibrant Piazza Martiri has once again come alive with the opening of Alchemiae, a pizzeria that marks a significant shift in the local culinary landscape. Formerly home to the Cannavacciuolo Bistrot, this iconic location is now helmed by Luca Mendozza, a Neapolitan pizzaiolo who has made his mark in the Piedmont region over the past 17 years. Mendozza’s vision is clear: to create a space that welcomes everyone, from early coffee drinkers to late-night diners.

Mendozza’s philosophy revolves around accessibility, with menu prices remaining steady and competitive. Classic offerings such as the Margherita pizza retain their humble price of €7.50, while innovative dishes like Cosacca—featuring San Marzano tomatoes and a medley of cheeses—are priced at just €7. This commitment to affordability does not compromise quality; rather, it reflects Mendozza’s dedication to delivering authentic Neapolitan flavors without pretense.

The Heart of Naples Meets Novara

At Alchemiae, guests are treated to an experience that transcends typical dining. The restaurant spans three levels, with each floor offering a unique ambiance. Mendozza has retained much of the existing decor from its predecessor while enhancing it with new tables and chairs that encourage conviviality among patrons.

One standout feature is the outdoor terrace, which boasts nearly 100 seats and promises to be a focal point as warmer weather approaches. With direct access to the foyer of Teatro Coccia—one of Italy’s historic theaters—Alchemiae seamlessly blends culinary artistry with cultural engagement. As Mendozza himself states, "For theatergoers, I’ve created a dedicated bar area so they can enjoy a quick drink during intermissions without stepping outside."

Craftsmanship Rooted in Tradition

Luca Mendozza’s journey as a pizzaiolo began during the pandemic, driven by necessity and passion for his craft. Trained under renowned maestros like Giorilli and Bonci, he honed his skills until he captured the prestigious Trofeo Caputo in 2022—a championship that showcases exceptional talent in pizza-making. His commitment to traditional techniques is evident in every pie crafted at Alchemiae.

The restaurant features around 20 different pizzas, including innovative spins on classics such as Napoli a Novara, which incorporates locally sourced ingredients like yellow and red Piennolo tomatoes sautéed with provola cheese and fresh basil. Another intriguing addition is the use of activated charcoal in his dough—a nod to Mount Vesuvius itself—which provides not only an eye-catching appearance but also unique flavor profiles.

More Than Just Pizza: A Culinary Experience

While Alchemiae is rooted in its pizza heritage, Mendozza envisions expanding beyond mere pies. “I want to introduce a tasting menu where customers can explore various dough types and toppings,” he reveals enthusiastically. This progressive approach promises an immersive culinary experience that takes diners from appetizers through dessert.

Upcoming dishes hint at Mendozza’s deep connection to his Neapolitan roots—such as classic polpette al sugo (meatballs in sauce), eggplant parmesan, and even candele di Gragnano with Genovese ragù—all crafted using authentic ingredients flown in from Campania. “It’s important for me that these flavors are true representations of my homeland,” he emphasizes, showcasing his commitment to authenticity even if it comes at higher costs.

The Soulful Intersection of Tradition and Innovation

Mendozza’s story is one of nostalgia intertwined with innovation; it celebrates both heritage and progress within Italy’s rich culinary tapestry. His passion for food extends beyond mere sustenance; it serves as an invitation for patrons to connect with history through taste.

As he prepares for an exciting year ahead—with plans for evening openings catering specifically to theater attendees—Mendozza remains grounded in his identity: “I may have found my home in Novara, but my heart will always belong to Naples.” His journey embodies a broader narrative within the Italian gastronomic scene: one where tradition meets modernity, where every bite tells a story steeped in culture.

Alchemiae stands as more than just another pizzeria; it represents a revival—a celebration of community, craftsmanship, and culinary art that invites all who enter to savor not just food but also memories rooted deep within Italian soil. In this ever-evolving landscape, Luca Mendozza is poised not just to serve pizza but also to redefine what it means to experience Italian cuisine today.

Photo by Kelvin T on Unsplash