Moët’s Innovative Approach to Champagne Freshness

15

Discover how Moët's cellar master Benoît Gouez maintains freshness in Champagne through unique fermentation techniques, despite changing climates.

Introduction to Moët’s Winemaking Philosophy

In the evolving world of winemaking, Moët & Chandon stands out with its innovative approach to maintaining the freshness of its sparkling wines. With climate change influencing grape acidity levels, Benoît Gouez, Moët’s cellar master, embraces a strategy that includes full malo-lactic fermentation (MLF). This decision may seem counterintuitive given the trend towards lower acidity in Champagne grapes, yet it highlights a deep understanding of what defines quality in sparkling wine.

The Impact of Climate Change on Champagne Grapes

Over the last few decades, Champagne has experienced a significant shift due to rising temperatures. As noted in recent studies, total acidity levels have declined sharply, particularly during extreme heatwaves like those seen in 2018. Traditionally known for its crisp and refreshing profile, Champagne risks losing its signature taste if growers harvest too early or fail to adapt their winemaking techniques. Gouez acknowledges this challenge but sees an opportunity for innovation.

• Riper Flavors: The warming climate allows for riper grapes that contribute to more complex flavors.
• Maintaining Acidity: Instead of blocking MLF—a process that softens sharp malic acid into lactic acid—Gouez focuses on harnessing the potential of ripe grapes without sacrificing freshness.
• Phenolic Management: By extracting phenolics from ripe grapes, he enhances mouthfeel and complexity while avoiding undesirable green notes often associated with under-ripe fruit.

Emphasizing Freshness Over Acidity

Gouez emphasizes that freshness is paramount over mere acidity. His philosophy is clear: "Champagne is not about acidity; it is about freshness." This perspective leads him to prefer ripe aromas derived from fully developed grapes. While many producers opt for higher acidity wines, Gouez believes that a well-balanced wine can be achieved by embracing low acidity alongside ripe flavors.

• Grapes Selection: He advocates for using sun-ripened grapes which provide deeper phenolic content—this contributes positively to the overall flavor profile.
• Tannins in White Wine: Gouez argues for recognizing tannins’ role in white wines as well as reds; they can add complexity and a pleasant finish when managed correctly.
• Oxidative Techniques: Allowing some oxidation during pressing helps develop noble tannins while preserving freshness.

Techniques for Managing Phenolics

The management of phenolics plays a crucial role in crafting modern Champagnes. Gouez’s approach involves careful extraction methods aimed at enhancing positive characteristics while minimizing unwanted green flavors. This technique aligns with trends noted by other experts like Vincent Chaperon from Dom Pérignon, who also emphasizes the importance of phenolic balance in achieving vibrant and fresh wines regardless of climatic conditions.

• Bitterness vs. Freshness: Understanding how bitterness can coexist with freshness allows winemakers like Gouez to innovate within traditional frameworks.
• Oxygenation Strategies: Controlled oxygen exposure early in the winemaking process sets the stage for a successful final product that feels both fresh and complex.
• Learning from Past Harvests: By examining historical data and previous harvests known for their ripeness, winemakers can draw lessons on managing phenolic content effectively.

Industry Perspectives on MLF and Freshness

While Moët maintains its commitment to full malo-lactic fermentation, other houses are exploring various methodologies based on their unique terroirs and vintage conditions. Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon from Louis Roederer discusses how specific harvests have led to long-lived Champagnes despite high ripeness levels—indicating that adaptability is key across the industry. This experimentation reflects an ongoing dialogue among producers regarding optimal winemaking practices in response to climate challenges.

• Varied Approaches Across Houses: Each producer adopts different strategies based on their vision and understanding of terroir—a practice essential for creating distinctive wines.
• Future Trends: As global warming continues to impact viticulture, staying attuned to evolving practices will be critical for maintaining Champagne’s esteemed reputation worldwide.

Conclusion

Moët & Chandon’s innovative strategies under Benoît Gouez showcase how adaptability can lead to success amid challenges posed by climate change. By focusing on maintaining freshness through thoughtful management of fermentation processes and grape selection rather than solely relying on acidity levels, Moët is setting a benchmark for excellence in sparkling wine production. With ongoing discussions about best practices among industry leaders, the future looks bright for Champagne enthusiasts eager to experience these evolving expressions.

Photo by Muhammad-Taha Ibrahim on Unsplash