Discovering Dehours: A Family’s Unconventional Champagne Journey

You've got to hear about Jérôme Dehours' unique take on champagne! His family legacy and innovative approach are truly inspiring.

The Legacy of Dehours: A Journey Through Time

When it comes to champagne, the Dehours family has a story that defies tradition. Starting in the 1930s, Jérôme’s grandfather began as a grape supplier for the big names in the industry. But the family’s journey took a bold turn when they decided to keep their grapes for their own production. This was revolutionary at a time when most were simply suppliers. Fast forward to today, and we find Jérôme Dehours himself at the helm, navigating through familial legacies and his own vision.

After his father’s passing, Jérôme found himself disillusioned with the direction taken by outside investors. He recalls that moment vividly, "It was time for us to reclaim our narrative." At just 30 years old, he made a daring decision to start anew from scratch—no equipment, no clients, just passion for producing exceptional champagne.

From those humble beginnings in 1996, he has now cultivated over 42 parcels of land within a mere three kilometers around Epernay. This isn’t just champagne; it’s a living tapestry woven from family history and terroir.

Embracing Diversity: A Mosaic of Terroirs

What sets Jérôme apart is his commitment to producing terroir-driven champagnes. Unlike many producers who focus on blends, he passionately believes in showcasing individual plots. Each parcel offers a unique expression of its environment; he often describes his vineyards as a puzzle waiting to be assembled.

On his journey into this innovative approach in the 90s, he faced skepticism—after all, blending was king in Champagne! But he was inspired by pioneers like Krug and Pierre Péters who dared to highlight single vineyard expressions. He shared with me during our chat how crucial it is to respect each plot’s individuality: "I aim not to modify but to enhance what nature has already created," he emphasized.

It’s fascinating how he meticulously works with different soil types across Mareuil-le-Port, Oeuilly, and Troissy—each contributing distinctive qualities to his wines.

The Heart of the Vineyard: Nurturing Nature

One cannot speak of Jérôme without mentioning his deep respect for nature. He leads by example as one of the first certified HVE3 (High Environmental Value) producers in Champagne—a testament to his dedication toward sustainable practices.

His philosophy? Adaptation is key! Depending on climatic conditions each year, he alters vineyard management techniques without relying on herbicides or synthetic chemicals. I remember him saying, "A good fruit is one that is fully ripe—not just full of sugar." His late harvest approach allows grapes to reach their phenolic maturity which enhances flavor complexity.

A memorable experience I had was tasting his wines from 2013—the grapes were harvested late in October after achieving perfect ripeness. The result? An extraordinary vintage reminiscent of traditional winemaking from decades past.

Crafting Unique Champagnes: The Art of Vinification

Once harvested, Jérôme takes an equally hands-on approach in the cellar. He avoids common practices such as heavy filtration or excessive sulfites—his goal is authenticity and purity.

He explains how every batch undergoes natural fermentation using selected indigenous yeasts from his vineyards. This practice not only reflects his belief that yeast forms an integral part of terroir, but it also brings out nuanced flavors that commercial yeasts might mask.

In my conversation with him about this process, I could feel his excitement as he described how this attention to detail creates a champagne that’s truly distinctive—a reflection not just of the land but also of their family heritage.

What Critics Say: A Rising Star in Champagne

The accolades have started pouring in for Dehours & Fils! Critics are taking note of these characterful champagnes crafted predominantly from Pinot Meunier:

• La Revue du vin de France awarded them one star out of four for their exceptional quality.
• Bettane et Desseauve rated them four stars out of five praising their elegance and food-friendly profiles.

FAQ About Dehours Champagnes

What makes Dehours’ champagnes unique?

Jérôme focuses on single vineyard expressions rather than blends, providing distinct flavor profiles influenced by specific terroirs.

How does sustainability play into their production?

They are certified HVE3 and implement methods that respect biodiversity while minimizing chemical use in viticulture.

Can you recommend a specific cuvée?

Absolutely! Try But Nature, an experimental cuvée made from Pinot Meunier—it captures autumn beautifully!

What temperature should I serve Dehours’ champagnes?

For warm dishes or cigars, serving them slightly chilled around 15°C can enhance your tasting experience!

So if you’re looking for something truly special next time you pop open some bubbly, consider exploring what Jérôme Dehours has crafted—a rich narrative filled with passion and authenticity awaits!

Photo by Giorgio Trovato on Unsplash