Discover Timorasso: Elisa Semino’s Gentle Wine from La Colombera

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Discover Elisa Semino's winemaking legacy in Colli Tortonesi, reviving Timorasso with organic practices and exceptional wines like Derthona and Montino.

The Legacy of Elisa Semino: A Journey Through Timorasso

Elisa Semino embodies a deep-rooted commitment to her family’s winemaking legacy. Hailing from the sun-kissed Colli Tortonesi, she left her law studies to pursue enology under the guidance of Attilio Scienza. Alongside her father Piercarlo and her brother Lorenzo, they began cultivating their vineyards in 1980. This decision marked a significant shift, as they chose to produce their own wines instead of selling their grapes.

Their first label, La Colombera, emerged in 1998, with the first Timorasso, Derthona, following two years later. The Montino, a celebrated cru, debuted in 2006, showcasing the unique terroir of their vineyards. The soil, a blend of sandstone and clay, imparts a distinct mineral quality to their wines. Despite the challenges of cultivating white grape varieties in this region, Elisa’s dedication has helped revive interest in Timorasso, a grape once overshadowed by its red counterparts.

The Art of Winemaking: From Soil to Bottle

Elisa’s commitment to organic farming practices is evident in her vineyard management. They utilize only copper and sulfur, avoiding herbicides and emphasizing manual labor for all vineyard activities. This hands-on approach extends from pruning to harvesting, ensuring that each grape is treated with care.

In the winery, fermentation occurs spontaneously, with minimal intervention. The only addition is sulfur dioxide before bottling, preserving the wine’s natural character. This philosophy reflects a deep respect for the land and the grapes, allowing the true essence of the Colli Tortonesi to shine through.

The estate spans 30 hectares dedicated to grapes, with an additional 50 hectares for growing chickpeas and wheat. They also cultivate five hectares of fruit trees, producing the renowned Volpedo peaches. These peaches, once preserved, become a delightful treat, showcasing the diversity of their agricultural endeavors.

Tasting the Terroir: A Selection of Timorasso Wines

Recently, we had the pleasure of tasting five Timorasso wines from La Colombera at a historic trattoria in Rome. This establishment has been serving authentic Roman cuisine for over 90 years. Under the skilled management of Leonardo Vignoli, the trattoria continues to uphold its culinary traditions.

Among the wines sampled was the SantaCroce 2023, which impressed with its freshness and vibrant acidity. The wine, half fermented in steel and half in acacia tonneau, offers notes of unripe fruit, herbs, and minerals. Its pleasant mouthfeel hints at savory and vegetal qualities, reminiscent of capers. Although recently bottled, it shows great promise for future enjoyment.

The SantaCroce 2022, the inaugural release of this Timorasso, presents a drier profile. It is clean, austere, and elegant, with a refined hydrocarbon texture. The Montino 2022, with its 6,000-bottle production, showcases elegance through its resinous and mineral notes. Finally, the Derthona 2018 stands out as the flagship wine, offering a glyceric mouthfeel and delightful flavors of acacia honey and peach jam. Each sip tells a story of the land, the grape, and the passion behind La Colombera.

Photo by Andrea Cairone on Unsplash

Source: Vinodabere – Timorato, docile e gentile: il Timorasso di Elisa Semino de La Colombera