Discover Styria: Expert Sommelier Insights by Vladimir Kojic

0

Discover the Styrian Gang of Four, Austria's natural wine pioneers, revolutionizing winemaking with low-intervention practices and unique varietals.

The Styrian Gang of Four: Pioneers of Natural Wine in Austria

The natural wine movement has gained significant traction over the past few decades, reshaping the landscape of winemaking worldwide. Among the vanguards of this movement are a group of innovative winemakers from Styria, Austria, collectively referred to as the Styrian Gang of Four. This article delves into their unique philosophies and contributions to natural wine, showcasing their distinctive wines and offering recommendations that every wine enthusiast should consider.

The Roots of Natural Wine

The Birth of a Movement

The origins of natural wine can be traced back to a handful of winemakers in Beaujolais during the early 1980s, including Marcel Lapierre and Jean Foillard. However, for many, including those with connections to Styria—a picturesque region characterized by diverse soil types—the roots run deeper. The region is known for its calcareous marl soil called opok, which plays a crucial role in defining the wines produced here.

A Styrian Perspective

Styria is primarily known for its white varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Muskateller, while its red offerings include Zweigelt and Blauer Wildbacher. The Styrian Gang of Four—Sepp Muster, Ewald Tscheppe, Andreas Tscheppe, and Franz Strohmeier—has revolutionized Austrian winemaking through low-intervention practices. Their approach emphasizes minimal interference during both viticulture and vinification.

Meet the Winemakers

Sepp Muster: Biodynamic Visionary

At Weingut Maria & Sepp Muster, Sepp’s transformation from traditional practices to biodynamic methods after a life-altering event speaks volumes about his dedication to quality. His white blends—50/50 Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc—often evoke comparisons to high-end Jura wines due to their complexity and reductive characteristics.

• Recommended Wine: Sgaminegg (a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay) features aromatic notes reminiscent of curry leaf alongside stone fruit flavors. Its vibrant acidity ensures a long-lasting finish.

Ewald Tscheppe: Burgundy Influence

Ewald’s approach at Weingut Werlitsch incorporates a unique classification system inspired by Burgundy. He meticulously categorizes grapes based on their vineyard location, leading to distinctly expressive wines that never touch new oak barrels.

• Recommended Wine: Ex Vero III 2013 represents the pinnacle of his craft—a harmonious blend with intense minerality and balanced acidity that rivals some of the best Burgundies.

Andreas Tscheppe: The Wizard of the Hill

Known affectionately as the "Wizard of the Hill," Andreas’ winery is located adjacent to Ewald’s. His playful naming convention reflects his commitment to nature; each wine carries names inspired by amphibians or insects.

• Recommended Wine: Blau Libelle 2017, an extraordinary Sauvignon Blanc with green olive textures complemented by floral aromas and crisp acidity.

Franz Strohmeier: Philosophy in a Bottle

Franz Strohmeier’s philosophy centers around three tenets: Grape, Love, and Time (Trauben, Liebe und Zeit). His wines are not merely beverages but rather experiences that require dedication and mindfulness when tasting.

• Recommended Wine: Wine der Stille No6 (NV) offers an evolving tasting journey that begins with Pecorino cheese notes and transitions through blood orange flavors before revealing a sweet umeshu plum liqueur finish.

Trends in Natural Wine Production

Low-Intervention Practices on the Rise

Natural wine continues to gain popularity as consumers increasingly seek authenticity in their drinking experiences. This trend emphasizes transparency in production methods, focusing on organic or biodynamic farming techniques without synthetic additives.

Sustainability Takes Center Stage

Sustainability is at the heart of many natural wine producers’ practices today. As climate change affects traditional viticulture areas globally, winemakers are turning toward regenerative agriculture methods that enhance soil health while producing high-quality grapes.

Conclusion: A Toast to Innovation

The Styrian Gang of Four exemplifies how passion for winemaking can lead to groundbreaking innovation within the industry. Their commitment to low-intervention practices has not only revitalized Austrian winemaking but has also positioned natural wine as an exciting frontier for enthusiasts worldwide. As you explore these remarkable wines from Styria, remember that each bottle tells a story—one steeped in tradition yet brimming with modernity.

FAQ

What is natural wine?

Natural wine refers to wines made with minimal intervention during both viticulture (grape growing) and vinification (wine making), often using organic or biodynamic farming practices without added sulfites or commercial yeasts.

Why is Styria significant in natural wine?

Styria is significant due to its diverse soils and innovative winemakers who have embraced low-intervention techniques. The region’s unique climate allows for exceptional expressions of both white and red varietals.

How do I choose a good natural wine?

When selecting natural wines, look for producers who emphasize organic farming practices, have transparent production methods, and produce limited quantities. Reading reviews or seeking recommendations from knowledgeable sommeliers can also guide your choices effectively.

Photo by Karsten Würth on Unsplash