Bastard: Exploring Beauty and Its Meaning

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Discover Bastard Hill in the Upper Yarra Valley, a historic vineyard known for its unique soils and resilient winemaking, now revitalized by Giant Steps.

The Myth and Reality of Bastard Hill

Bastard Hill is a hidden gem in the Upper Yarra Valley. Few people stumble upon this vineyard without a purpose. Surrounded by towering tree ferns, it feels almost mythical. At just under 1,300 feet, its unique red basalt soils set it apart. However, accessing these vines requires navigating through dense temperate rainforest.

The vineyard’s history is as intriguing as its location. Ray Guerin discovered this site back in 1986. At the time, he was still establishing his reputation in viticulture. Although he wasn’t the first choice to manage this vineyard, his vision transformed it into something special. Initially covered in cherry trees and grazed by livestock, the land’s steep slopes posed challenges that only a dedicated winemaker could overcome.

Today, Bastard Hill stands as a testament to perseverance and innovation. Ray planted Pinot Noir on its northern slope and Chardonnay on the southern side. This decision has proven to be visionary as these varieties thrive in challenging conditions. The story of Bastard Hill isn’t just about wine; it’s about transformation and resilience against all odds.

A Legacy of Change and Resilience

Over the years, ownership changes at Bastard Hill have mirrored seasonal shifts in nature. The original investors sought multiple partners, but stability remained elusive. Eventually, Hardy Wine Company aimed to monopolize the vineyard’s fruit for sparkling wine production. Yet winemakers like Tom Newtown and Steve Pannell saw potential for still wines and fought to reclaim some grapes for their programs.

This struggle led to memorable still wines produced under the Bastard Hill label in the late 1990s. Those who tasted them often recall their ethereal quality fondly. Even now, memories linger about where those wines were stored on shelves across Sydney wine shops. The evocative name also played a role in creating intrigue around those early releases.

However, despite its promise, Bastard Hill faced challenges typical of marginal vineyards. Many corporate giants quickly discarded the Hardy name after acquiring it. Ray Guerin had committed himself longer than initially planned but eventually moved on from the vineyard he nurtured for over two decades. His departure marked another shift in Bastard Hill’s storied history as it drifted into obscurity.

A New Era with Giant Steps

In 2022, Bastard Hill hit the market again after years of neglect by larger corporations. Enter Melanie Chester of Giant Steps, who was keenly aware of its historical significance despite her youth. She reached out to Barbara Banke from Jackson Family Wines about acquiring this unique site.

Acquiring Bastard Hill wasn’t easy due to higher farming costs compared to valley floor sites. Nevertheless, Chester’s request carried weight given her team’s impressive track record with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay production in Australia.

Walking through the vineyard with Chester was an emotional experience for many involved. Restoration efforts are underway alongside replanting initiatives focusing on clonal diversity and sustainable farming practices for future generations.

Tasting the first wines from Giant Steps’ revival was equally poignant—a delicate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a notably cold vintage year in 2023 showcased resilience against harsh conditions while exhibiting breathtaking beauty.

These early releases may represent just the beginning for Bastard Hill’s revival journey but promise an exciting future ahead as they continue evolving under capable hands dedicated to honoring its legacy.

Photo by Walter Frehner on Unsplash

Source: World Of Fine Wine – Why Bastard? Wherefore beautiful?