Discovering Cacio e Pepe: A Love Letter to Rome

3 min

You have to try the cacio e pepe at Felice in Testaccio! It's a delicious blend of tradition and passion that will leave you craving more.

A Culinary Gem in Rome: Felice a Testaccio

When I think of cacio e pepe, one name springs to mind: Felice a Testaccio. This historic trattoria, operating since 1936, has become synonymous with this simple yet profoundly flavorful dish. Imagine walking into a cozy Roman eatery where the air is thick with aromas of freshly grated cheese and cracked black pepper, instantly transporting you back in time. The restaurant was founded by Felice Trivelloni, who knew how to create magic with minimal ingredients.

I remember my first visit vividly. The moment I took my first bite of their cacio e pepe, it felt like a revelation—a perfect balance of creamy cheese and the pepper’s kick that danced on my palate. I couldn’t help but feel connected to the generations that had come before me, all sharing this very experience.

The Poet’s Tribute: A Unique Connection

Roberto Benigni, the famed Italian actor and director, is not just known for his cinematic genius but also for his love of food—particularly cacio e pepe from Felice. In May 2000, he penned a heartfelt poem about this dish and the restaurant that had captured his heart (and stomach!). It’s framed proudly within the trattoria’s walls, symbolizing how deeply intertwined food and culture can be.

Benigni’s words echo through the years, reflecting a love affair with this humble dish. His whimsical portrayal reminds us that cacio e pepe is not merely pasta; it’s an experience steeped in history and tradition.

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Keeping Tradition Alive

Following Felice’s passing in 2009, his son Franco took over the family business. While the restaurant has modernized its space to welcome new patrons, the recipes remain unchanged. Each plate of cacio e pepe is prepared with the same care and attention as it was decades ago.

What struck me during my last visit was not just the food but the atmosphere—a warm embrace that feels like home. As I savored each bite, I understood why people are drawn here from all corners of the globe—it’s about connection, nostalgia, and sheer enjoyment.

  • Amatriciana
  • Carbonara
  • Abbacchio al forno
  • Saltimbocca
  • Involtini al sugo
  • Polpettone al forno
  • And let’s not forget their luscious tiramisu!

Every dish tells a story, and every visit feels like you’re partaking in something larger than yourself—a culinary legacy.

Why You Must Experience It Yourself

If you’re heading to Rome or planning your next culinary adventure, make it a priority to visit Felice a Testaccio. It’s not just about eating; it’s about sharing an experience that resonates deeply with anyone who appreciates good food and rich history.

In today’s fast-paced world, we often overlook these gems where tradition meets passion. But places like Felice remind us why we fell in love with Italian cuisine in the first place—because it tells stories worth sharing.

Discovering Cacio e Pepe: A Love Letter to Rome

Frequently Asked Questions

What should I order at Felice?

Definitely start with their signature cacio e pepe! You won’t regret it.

Is there more than pasta on the menu?

Absolutely! They offer various traditional Roman dishes like amatriciana and carbonara.

Can I make reservations?

Yes! It’s advisable especially during peak dining hours to ensure you get a table.

Photo by Pablo Merchán Montes on Unsplash

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