How Rolling Back Vines is Saving Tuscan Wine from Climate Change

4 min

Curious about how Tuscany’s vineyards are adapting? Learn how a unique vine training technique is changing the game amidst climate challenges!

The Dance of Vines and Climate: A Story from Tuscany

As I wandered through the sun-drenched hills of Montalcino, I couldn’t help but think about the delicate balance between nature and viticulture. Climate change has transformed not just our weather patterns but also the very essence of winemaking. For Carlo Ferrini, a seasoned consultant oenologist, this transformation has been both challenging and enlightening. He recalls his early days in wine—how each season brought its own rhythm, distinct in its growing conditions. Fast forward to today, and Ferrini notes that these rhythms are out of sync, making it difficult for grape growers to predict harvests. "In the last years, climate change has been considerable," he says, lamenting how sudden storms or oppressive heat can ruin a vintage.

Ferrini’s vineyard at Giodo represents more than just land—it’s an experiment in adaptation. With six hectares dedicated to Sangiovese, he employs innovative techniques like accapannamento, which means rolling back vine shoots instead of pruning them away. This method allows for better canopy management without stressing the vines—a crucial factor in an era where temperatures swing wildly.

Accapannamento: The Art of Canopy Management

What exactly is accapannamento? Picture a skilled artisan weaving together strands of fabric; it’s much like that! By skillfully plaiting the shoots around wires rather than cutting them, Ferrini minimizes the risk of wounding the vine. This technique isn’t just aesthetic; it’s essential for retaining moisture and reducing stress during those blistering summer nights when temperatures can soar.

I remember visiting Giodo during harvest season last year; Ferrini excitedly pointed out how his vines were faring compared to others in the region struggling with scorching nights. "We’re not just fighting climate change—we’re trying to work with it," he explained passionately. Giodo’s 2024 harvest was indeed described as “marvellous,” proving that innovation can yield positive results even amidst adversity.

  • It helps manage canopy without cutting
  • Reduces vegetative growth
  • Minimizes risk of vine stress

Ferrini’s thoughtful approach isn’t isolated; other producers in Tuscany are also adopting this technique to tackle their unique climate challenges.

The Challenges Ahead: A Climate Conundrum

The unpredictability of rainfall has added another layer of complexity to Tuscan viticulture. Last September, Bolgheri faced a deluge—200mm in just hours—creating havoc among local vineyards. Ferrini shared with me that if he prunes too aggressively in such unpredictable conditions, he risks leaving vines vulnerable when they need those young leaves for maturation.

"You have to think like a vine," he said while strolling through his vineyard with me one sunny afternoon. As temperatures climb at night—often hovering around 20°C—the risk increases that vines will focus on survival rather than producing grapes filled with rich flavors and acidity.

It’s fascinating how these small decisions can impact overall quality—a lesson many budding winemakers should take to heart! Maintaining this balance requires ongoing learning and adaptation as trends shift with our changing environment.

Embracing Sustainability: Giodo’s Commitment

Sustainability isn’t merely a buzzword at Giodo; it’s part of their DNA from day one. Their organic practices emphasize soil health and water retention—an essential strategy given today’s erratic weather patterns. Bianca Ferrini explains their winter land cultivation methods designed to maximize water absorption when rains finally arrive. “We cover crop with legumes every three years,” she tells me with pride.

Their commitment extends beyond vineyards into the cellar where innovation continues unabated since completing their new facility in 2020. "Having our own space allowed us full control over processes—we could finally work 100% according to Giodo standards," Riccardo Ferrari noted during my visit.

  • Organic practices since inception
  • Cover cropping aids water retention
  • New cellar enhances winemaking process

With Giodo set to release their 2020 Brunello di Montalcino, excitement bubbles among wine enthusiasts eager for a taste from this groundbreaking vintage. As we discussed potential comparisons with past years’ releases, Riccardo expressed hope: "If we can navigate these climate challenges successfully, then perhaps every bottle will tell its own story of resilience."

Frequently Asked Questions about Vine Management Techniques in Tuscany

What is accapannamento?

Accapannamento is a vine training technique involving weaving shoots around wire instead of pruning them off entirely.

Why is canopy management important?

Effective canopy management helps protect grape clusters from harsh sunlight and retains moisture necessary for ripening grapes.

How does climate change affect grape quality?

Extreme temperatures and unpredictable weather patterns can lead to stress on vines, affecting fruit quality and yield significantly.

Photo by NOAA on Unsplash

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