Why Sicily’s Forgotten Grapes Are the Future of Wine

You won't believe the potential in Sicily's ancient grapes! Discover why these relic varieties are becoming the stars of modern winemaking.

Unearthing Sicily’s Hidden Wine Treasures

As a passionate wine enthusiast, my heart races at the thought of Sicily’s unique grape varieties. Did you know that this sun-soaked island has been a melting pot of viticultural influences? Each grape tells a story, and among them are those precious relic varieties that have long been overlooked. It was during a visit to Licodia Eubea that I first learned about these ancient grapes from enologist Angelo Di Grazia, whose mission is to revive them. He boldly asserts, “These grapes are not just remnants; they’re our future!”

It’s fascinating how he stumbled upon this journey. A few years back, while researching indigenous grape varieties at IRVO (the Regional Institute for Vine and Oil), his curiosity sparked when he discovered an array of forgotten Sicilian grapes—those resilient enough to thrive in extreme climates. This revelation wasn’t merely academic for him; it was personal.

The Challenge of Rediscovery

In 2019, Di Grazia took a leap of faith by planting three relic grape varieties: recunu, cutrera, and rucignola. I can imagine the anticipation he felt as he nurtured these vines under Mount Altore’s watchful gaze. Imagine standing there, surrounded by history, knowing that you were bringing life back to grapes that had nearly faded into oblivion!

But challenges loomed large. At the same time, Massimo Padova from Riofavara winery was searching for local expertise to enhance his production. Their paths crossed in a serendipitous moment where they sampled wines crafted from those very relics. It turned out that what some deemed imperfections—high acidity and uniqueness—were precisely what Di Grazia loved about them!

From Laboratory to Bottling: A Bold Collaboration

Their collaboration blossomed when Padova decided to take a risk on these unique grapes after tasting Di Grazia’s vision for their potential. What ensued was an exhilarating journey that challenged conventional winemaking norms. As someone who deeply appreciates both tradition and innovation in wine production, I felt exhilarated hearing how they embraced an unfiltered approach—a philosophy Angelo refers to as "subtractivism."

• No unnecessary additives
• Minimal intervention
• Emphasis on the natural expression of the terroir

This approach not only preserves the essence of these forgotten grapes but also allows their intrinsic characteristics to shine through.

The Resilience of Relic Grapes Amid Climate Change

As climate change wreaks havoc across vineyards worldwide, Di Grazia’s commitment to relic varieties positions them as champions against adversity. In his own experience during challenging harvests in 2022 and 2023, while many vineyards struggled with drought and disease, his relic vines thrived.

“The reliability of these grapes is astounding!” he exclaims passionately. His insights reveal how recunu’s inherent high acidity acts as a natural preservative, reducing reliance on sulfur dioxide—a crucial factor for many winemakers today.

Celebrating the Future: An Exciting Market Shift?

Sicily’s landscape may be shifting towards white wines, but as Di Grazia suggests, there is still immense potential for reds made from these resilient grape varieties too. Could it be that we’re witnessing a renaissance in Sicilian winemaking driven by its historical gems?

As I sip on one of Angelo’s creations—a crisp Nsajàr—I find myself captivated by its complexity and finesse. Named after the Sicilian dialect meaning "try it and see," this wine embodies everything he stands for: experimentation, tradition, and respect for heritage.

FAQs About Sicily’s Relic Grapes

Why are relic grapes important?

Relic grapes offer diversity in flavor profiles and resilience against climate change impacts.

How do these grapes affect wine quality?

They contribute unique acidity and character while often requiring less intervention during vinification.

Can I find wines made from these grapes outside Italy?

While they may be rare now, growing interest could lead to wider availability soon.

Sicily’s future is indeed bright with its ancient varietals taking center stage once again! With enologists like Angelo leading the way, we might just redefine what Sicilian wine means.

Photo by Juraj Filipeje on Unsplash