Discover Messina’s Traditional Pastry Revival

Explore the rich heritage of Messina's pastries and the efforts to preserve these culinary treasures with Letterio Freni's innovative approach.

Reviving Messina’s Pastry Heritage
Nestled in the heart of Messina, Italy, Pasticceria Freni stands as a testament to the region’s rich pastry traditions. Founded by Letterio Freni, affectionately known as “Lillo,” this bakery is not just a place to indulge in sweets; it’s a sanctuary dedicated to preserving age-old recipes that are at risk of fading into obscurity. Growing up in a family deeply rooted in the pastry business, Lillo inherited a passion for traditional Sicilian desserts from his father, Giuseppe. In 2011, he graduated with a degree in Gastronomic Sciences from the University of Messina, focusing on the history and innovation of typical Messinese pastries—a work that later evolved into a published book.
Lillo believes that regional culinary heritage should not only be preserved but actively shared with future generations. His commitment is evident through his involvement with Duciezio, a cultural association aimed at safeguarding Sicilian confectionery traditions. His daily work at Pasticceria Freni earned him special recognition for enhancing local products in the 2025 edition of Guida Pasticceri & Pasticcerie.

Tradition Meets Modernity
After navigating through the challenges posed by COVID-19, Lillo reopened his family’s historic bakery located in the southern part of Messina. The newly renovated space combines modern elegance with traditional charm, operating solely on takeout during morning hours. The menu boasts authentic creations that evoke nostalgia and celebrate the milestones of countless generations of locals. Among his goals is to honor this cherished heritage while adapting to contemporary tastes and dietary habits. This involves lightening and balancing traditional sweets without compromising their essence.
One standout offering is Pignolata, an iconic sweet once synonymous with Carnival celebrations but now available year-round. Renowned for its authentic recipe, Lillo’s Pignolata ranks among the best in Messina. Other delights include exquisite cannoli filled with fine ricotta cream and beautiful cassata, each bite telling a story steeped in local tradition.

Sweets for Every Occasion
Every celebration in Sicily is marked by unique confections, and Pasticceria Freni ensures that no festive table is complete without them. During All Saints’ Day, you can find Scardellini, local almond paste treats shaped like Xs filled with candied citrus or chocolate—an essential treat for children on November 2nd alongside frutta Martorana (marzipan fruits). For Easter, Lillo crafts adorable almond paste lambs using molds created by his father decades ago—decorated by hand and filled with delicious nougat or gianduia.
For the Feast of Immaculate Conception, don’t miss out on Nipitiddati, delicate pastries filled with dried figs, candied oranges, nuts, spices, and chocolate bits.

Holiday Specials: Festive Delicacies
The Christmas season brings an array of delightful treats to Pasticceria Freni’s menu. A highlight is the almond star, stuffed with candied cedro (citron), which graces many Messinese tables during December festivities. Another signature item is the creamy torrone gelato, enriched with candied fruit, fondant sugar, almonds, pistachios, and a hint of lemon zest—all encased in either almond paste or chocolate.
In keeping with their philosophy of sustainability and regional pride, even their packaging reflects Sicilian colors and symbols—making every purchase an experience steeped in local culture.

Conclusion: A Sweet Legacy Continues
As we savor these remarkable pastries from Pasticceria Freni, we are reminded of the importance of preserving culinary traditions amidst changing times. With passionate custodians like Lillo leading the way, we can enjoy these time-honored flavors while ensuring they remain part of our collective memory for years to come.

Photo by Dendy Darma Satyazi on Unsplash