Marina Marcarino Critiques Grandi Langhe’s New Format Mix

3

Explore the evolving dynamics of Italy's wine events, Grandi Langhe and Nebbiolo Prima, as they adapt to new formats and audience engagement strategies.

Introduction

As the 2025 wine year approaches, the Langhe region is gearing up for a season filled with innovation and some internal controversy. The ninth edition of Grandi Langhe is set to take place in Turin on January 27-28, 2025, at the OGR – Officine Grandi Riparazioni. This year’s event introduces a new format aimed at enhancing engagement with wineries, buyers, and journalists. Notably, a dedicated tasting room for journalists will feature sommeliers serving the latest vintages. This shift appears to draw inspiration from Tuscany’s preview events.

In the preceding week, Nebbiolo Prima, now in its 29th edition, will occur in Alba with an increasingly exclusive format. This year’s event invites a select group of international journalists and influencers to taste and evaluate new Nebbiolo wines from prominent Langhe and Roero denominations. Last year’s offering included around 300 samples from approximately 175 producers—numbers that seem limited given the extensive range of denominations involved. Furthermore, there has been noticeable underrepresentation of national media compared to their international counterparts.

With these changes on the horizon, it raises questions about the future dynamics between Nebbiolo Prima and Grandi Langhe.

The Evolution of Nebbiolo Prima

Since its inception in 2017 through collaboration among several consortia—including Barolo Barbaresco Langhe and Dogliani—the Nebbiolo Prima event has become intertwined with Grandi Langhe’s programming. However, as Grandi Langhe expands its format, concerns arise regarding the distinct roles of these two initiatives.

Marina Marcarino, president of Albeisa consortium, noted that Nebbiolo Prima originated from earlier wine exhibitions in Alba. Initially open to more journalists—often hosted by producers—the event has since evolved into a more selective affair. "We now curate a small group of journalists—36 this year—to ensure high-quality interactions," she explained.

Despite this effort for exclusivity, it remains clear that many national media outlets are excluded compared to broader invitations extended during other events like Benvenuto Brunello or Tuscan previews where media engagement is significantly higher.

Grandi Langhe’s New Format: Opportunities and Challenges

The upcoming Grandi Langhe event introduces noteworthy changes that could reshape industry perceptions. With plans for around 200 wine writers participating in technical tastings alongside buyers, Marcarino expressed concerns about blending these different audiences.

“When we first conceptualized Grandi Langhe with Pietro Ratti,” she recalled, “we divided responsibilities: Albeisa would handle technical tastings while Grandi Langhe focused on buyers.” She criticized the decision to mix media and buyer experiences as "illogical," emphasizing that buyers prioritize sales strategies over nuanced tasting experiences.

This new direction also raises logistical issues regarding tasting conditions. “Our events provide ideal environments for journalists,” said Marcarino. “In contrast, the setup in Turin may dilute our carefully curated experience.”

Covered vs. Open Tastings: A Divisive Issue

A significant point of contention lies in the format of tastings themselves—specifically between covered (blind) tastings versus open ones where brands are visible to tasters. Marcarino articulated her skepticism towards open tastings during Grandi Langhe: “When tasters can see labels, it biases their opinions.” She explained that top-tier wineries often overshadow lesser-known producers simply based on name recognition during open formats.

“Covered tastings allow for genuine exploration,” she asserted. "Tasters encounter surprises they might otherwise overlook." This method ensures every wine has an equal opportunity to impress without preconceived notions based on reputation or branding.

The Numbers Game: Participation Rates

Currently projected attendance figures indicate a disparity between Nebbiolo Prima and Grandi Langhe events: only about 250 producers will showcase approximately 450 bottles at Nebbiolo Prima compared to around 490 producers expected at Grandi Langhe with nearly 1,000 labels available for press tasting sessions. This discrepancy further complicates how these two initiatives might coexist moving forward.

A Conflicted Future: Cooperation or Competition?

The evolving landscape begs the question: Will there be dialogue between the two consortia regarding their respective formats? Marcarino confirmed her willingness to engage with Sergio Germano (president of the Langhe consortium), expressing her critiques while remaining open to collaboration: “We plan to give our invited journalists access to Grandi Langhe.”

However, she also noted that many producers have yet to voice their opinions on these changes—a factor crucial for assessing overall acceptance within the industry.

Conclusion

As both Grandi Langhe and Nebbiolo Prima prepare for their respective events amidst changing formats and audience dynamics, stakeholders must navigate these complexities thoughtfully. While each initiative serves vital roles within Italy’s renowned wine sector, balancing their objectives without undermining one another will be critical moving forward.

FAQ

What is Grandi Langhe?

Grandi Langhe is an annual wine event held in Turin that showcases wines from various producers in the region while facilitating connections between buyers and industry professionals.

What is Nebbiolo Prima?

Nebbiolo Prima is an exclusive tasting event focusing specifically on Nebbiolo wines from top regions like Barolo and Barbaresco; it primarily caters to selected international wine journalists and influencers.

How do covered tastings differ from open tastings?

Covered tastings conceal labels from tasters to minimize bias based on brand recognition; open tastings allow participants to see labels during evaluation which can influence their perception of quality based on reputation alone.

Photo by Priscilla Du Preez 🇨🇦 on Unsplash