Robert Princic Responds to Rebel Winemakers on Collio Bianco

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Discover the Collio Renaissance, where winemakers revive indigenous varietals like Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, enhancing global recognition of Collio wines.

The Collio Renaissance: A New Era for Indigenous Varietals

The Collio region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, is undergoing a remarkable transformation. Since 2018, a group of passionate winemakers has emerged, dedicated to showcasing the indigenous grape varieties that define this unique terroir. The trio of Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Malvasia Istriana is at the heart of this movement, culminating in the creation of a new label—Collio Bianco da Uve Autoctone. This initiative not only seeks to honor tradition but also to elevate the quality and recognition of Collio wines on a global stage.

Renowned producers like Muzic and Cantina Produttori di Cormòns have already achieved accolades, including the prestigious Tre Bicchieri from Gambero Rosso. In an exclusive interview with Robert Princic, a stalwart of Collio winemaking and the leader of Gradis’ciutta since 1997, we explore the depths of this renaissance. “We’re not just making wine; we’re telling our story,” he emphasizes, reflecting a sentiment shared by many in this vibrant community.

A Historical Perspective on Collio’s Identity

The history of Collio is as rich as its soils. Established in 1968, it was the third wine consortium formed in Italy and remains pivotal in defining Friuli’s wine culture. The geographical limitations—marked by military borders—have shaped its development, leading to a concentrated focus on hillside vineyards where the renowned ponca soil (a mix of marl and sandstone) thrives.

This unique geological composition influences everything from vine health to flavor profiles. As Princic notes, “Our identity is rooted in this land; it’s what sets us apart.” This dedication to place is echoed across generations, with ancient Roman settlements like Aquileia serving as reminders of the region’s historical significance.

Today, with only about 1,400 hectares under vine—compared to Montalcino’s 1,800—Collio’s size may be modest but its ambition is grand. The conversation around indigenous varietals versus international ones has sparked lively debates among producers and consumers alike.

The Case for Indigenous Grapes

Proponents of indigenous varietals argue that they encapsulate the essence of Collio better than their international counterparts. They contend that using grapes like Ribolla Gialla offers authenticity that speaks directly to terroir. Historical records indicate that Ribolla was once ubiquitous in local vineyards; however, over time it became overshadowed by more commercially popular varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.

Princic emphasizes that “to truly understand Collio Bianco, one must appreciate its roots.” He recalls how traditional practices allowed for mixed plantings where various varietals coexisted harmoniously in each vineyard. This diversity produced complex wines that told a richer story—a philosophy that many modern winemakers aim to revive today.

Yet some argue for a more inclusive definition of "indigenous," considering how historical cultivation patterns have included international grapes for over a century. As Princic reminds us: “When do we start classifying these varieties as native?”

The Balancing Act: Tradition vs. Modernity

As discussions surrounding grape variety continue to evolve, so too does the need for clarity regarding what constitutes Collio Bianco. The challenge lies not just in defining identity through grape selection but also ensuring commercial viability in an increasingly competitive market.

With approximately 28% of Collio vineyards planted with Pinot Grigio and 18% with Sauvignon Blanc, there exists an inherent tension between honoring tradition and meeting consumer preferences. According to Princic, “It’s easier to sell single-varietal wines today; however, we must not lose sight of our heritage.”

To navigate these complexities, he proposes creating a structured classification system within the DOC framework—perhaps introducing terms like Gran Selezione for blends featuring traditional grapes aged longer to enhance their unique characteristics.

Elevating Collio: A Collective Responsibility

Moving forward requires collaboration among all stakeholders within the Collio consortium—a notion Princic strongly advocates for. “We must respect individual expressions while fostering unity,” he states passionately. With varying perspectives among producers ranging from large estates to smaller family-owned wineries, finding common ground becomes paramount.

One potential solution could involve emphasizing local terroir over specific varietals on labels—similar to how regions like Châteauneuf-du-Pape present their wines without overwhelming emphasis on individual grape compositions. “Consumers should drink our territory,” Princic explains succinctly.

Moreover, increasing public awareness about Collio’s distinctive characteristics will be essential in establishing brand identity both locally and internationally. Whether through festivals celebrating indigenous varieties or educational programs targeting sommeliers and retailers alike—the path ahead is ripe with opportunity.

Conclusion: Embracing Change While Honoring Legacy

As we conclude our exploration into the evolving landscape of Collio wine production, it becomes clear that this region stands at a crossroads between tradition and innovation. Through thoughtful dialogue among producers and advocates like Robert Princic—the future looks promising for indigenous varietals in Collio.

While acknowledging historical practices can inform contemporary choices—it’s vital not only to preserve but also adapt those legacies into modern frameworks appealing to diverse palates worldwide. By championing authenticity alongside quality—and inviting consumers on this journey—we may soon witness an even greater resurgence for Collio wines globally.

In the words of Princic: “Let us continue writing our story together.” Indeed!

Photo by Constant Loubier on Unsplash