Rare Montebore Cheese Revived by Young Cheesemaker

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Discover Piedmont's hidden gems: Montebore cheese, Timorasso wine, and Val Curone's rich traditions. Explore unique flavors and cultural heritage in every bite!

Unearthing Piedmont’s Hidden Gems: Montebore, Timorasso, and the Delights of Val Curone

The Renaissance of Montebore: A Cheese with a Storied Past

Nestled in the rolling hills of Val Curone, where vineyards share space with peach orchards, lies a cheese whose history stretches back to the Middle Ages: Montebore. This rare delicacy is as much a cultural artifact as it is a culinary marvel. Legend has it that Montebore was the sole cheese served at the 1489 wedding banquet of Isabella d’Aragona and Gian Galeazzo Sforza, orchestrated by none other than Leonardo da Vinci himself. Shaped like a tiered wedding cake, Montebore’s unique form and flavor have captivated gastronomes for centuries.

Yet, by the late 20th century, this artisanal treasure was teetering on extinction. It was only through the dedication of local producers and Slow Food initiatives that Montebore saw its revival. Matteo Grattone, a young cheesemaker from Terre del Giarolo, has been instrumental in carrying forward this tradition since 2021. “With my family’s support, I revived an abandoned dairy and brought back the original recipe,” he shares. Today, his handcrafted cheeses are aged in conditions mimicking natural caves, resulting in creamy layers infused with delicate flavors reminiscent of raw milk. Matteo’s innovation even extends to experimenting with up to five layers for special occasions—a bold twist on tradition.

From Field to Formaggio: The Artisanal Process Behind Montebore

Montebore is more than just a cheese; it is an embodiment of terroir and tradition. Produced exclusively with raw milk sourced from cows (70%), sheep (30%), and occasionally goats (5%) grazing across Val Curone and neighboring regions, its creation reflects both ingenuity and adaptability. “Historically, farmers used whatever milk they had available,” explains Matteo.

The process begins with warming raw milk to 36°C before adding natural rennet to initiate curdling. Once formed into molds of varying diameters—stacked later to create its signature layered look—the cheese undergoes manual salting using Ligurian sea salt. This detail nods to the region’s historic role along the Strada del Sale (Salt Road), which connected Piedmont to Liguria.

Aging is where Montebore truly comes alive. While younger forms are ready within weeks, longer maturation periods—up to a year—yield complex textures and nuanced flavors. In Matteo’s custom-designed aging cellar, spontaneous mold growth adds depth to each wheel. “A well-aged Montebore retains its creamy core while developing earthy undertones,” he notes.

Timorasso Wines: The Liquid Treasure of Colli Tortonesi

Beyond its cheese heritage, Val Curone is home to another jewel: Timorasso, a white wine varietal that has catapulted the Colli Tortonesi region into global prominence over the past two decades. Known locally as Derthona, Timorasso offers remarkable complexity with notes of ripe stone fruits, honeyed minerality, and vibrant acidity—a profile that evolves beautifully over time.

The renaissance of Timorasso mirrors that of Montebore: once overlooked in favor of more famous Piedmontese wines like Barolo or Barbera, it owes its revival to visionary winemakers who saw potential in its forgotten vines. Pairing Timorasso with Montebore creates an unforgettable sensory experience—its bright acidity cutting through the creaminess of aged cheeses while enhancing their subtle nutty flavors.

As sommelier Elena Rossi observes: “Timorasso isn’t just a wine; it’s an expression of these hills’ soul—a perfect companion to local delicacies.”

A Culinary Symphony: Pairing Montebore with Local Flavors

On Piedmontese tables, Montebore transforms simple dishes into culinary masterpieces. Its versatility shines when melted over stuffed pasta like agnolotti or stirred into risotto for added creaminess. For purists seeking unadulterated enjoyment, pairing slices with walnuts or figs highlights its delicate profiles.

But perhaps most enchanting are its pairings with artisanal preserves from nearby farms such as La Montemarzina. Their inventive creations—like pumpkin-ginger compote or balsamic-infused plum jam—enhance Montebore's flavors without overpowering them. As Marco Ravazzano from La Montemarzina explains: “Our mission is rooted in celebrating what these hills offer—from fruit orchards to fine cheeses.”

For those seeking something sweet yet savory, try combining aged Montebore with Piemonte’s iconic cugnà—a grape must-based condiment laced with nuts and spices.

Exploring Val Curone: Where Tradition Meets Innovation

Val Curone offers more than exceptional food and wine—it is a destination steeped in history and natural beauty. Visitors can explore charming hamlets like Volpedo (birthplace of Giuseppe Pellizza), stroll through fruit orchards heavy with peaches and cherries, or venture higher into the Apennine foothills where Lombardy meets Liguria.

Essential stops include:

• Terre del Giarolo in Fabbrica Curone for guided tastings of their signature cheeses.
• La Montemarzina in Montemarzino for seasonal fruit preserves.
• Orizzonti Guest House near Sarezzano for vineyard views paired with Timorasso wines.

In this corner of Piedmont where ancient traditions intertwine seamlessly with modern artistry, every bite tells a story—and every glass raises a toast—to resilience and passion.

Photo by Matthew Moloney on Unsplash