Rare Romagnolo Chicken Saved by Local Farmers and an Osteria

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Discover the Romagnolo chicken's revival—a heritage breed saved from extinction, now prized for its rich flavor, sustainability, and cultural significance.

Rediscovering the Romagnolo Chicken: A Culinary and Cultural Renaissance

The Heritage Bird That Almost Disappeared

The Romagnolo chicken, once a staple of rural tables in Italy’s Romagna region, has emerged from near extinction to reclaim its rightful place in the gastronomic world. Known for its striking plumage of black, white, gray, and rust hues, this breed represents a bygone era when livestock roamed freely, contributing to both sustenance and economy. For centuries, the "azdore" (matriarchs of Romagnan households) relied on these chickens for their white eggs—essential for pasta-making—and as a source of meat after their egg-laying years.

However, with the post-war boom in industrial farming, this hardy bird was pushed aside in favor of faster-growing breeds suited to intensive production. By the late 20th century, fewer than fifty individuals remained. Thanks to a collaboration between ARVAR (Association for Autochthonous Breeds and Varieties of Romagna) and the University of Parma in 1997, efforts to preserve this breed began in earnest. Stefano Tozzi of Mercato Saraceno played a pivotal role by incubating eggs from the last known flock, ensuring that this remarkable bird did not vanish entirely.

Today, fewer than 3,000 Romagnolo chickens exist—a stark contrast to industrialized poultry numbers. Yet this scarcity has only heightened their value among chefs and discerning diners who prize their rich flavor and firm texture.

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A Sustainable Approach to Poultry Farming

The revival of the Romagnolo chicken is not merely about saving a breed; it’s an emblem of sustainable farming practices. Unlike industrially-raised birds confined to crowded coops, these chickens roam freely across pastures. Their diet consists of what they forage—worms, seeds, berries—making them truly pasture-raised. This lifestyle fosters muscle development rather than rapid weight gain: males rarely exceed 2.7 kg and females peak at around 2 kg after seven months of slow growth.

As Massimiliano Maggioli’s Tenuta Saiano demonstrates, raising these birds requires a closed-loop system focused on quality over quantity. The estate’s diverse ecosystem supports not only chickens but also pigs (including Mora Romagnola), sheep, geese grazing among vineyards, and more—all contributing to its self-sufficient agricultural model.

Maggioli reflects on this philosophy: “The industry demands speed and uniformity; we strive for authenticity and harmony with nature.” Such methods align with Slow Food principles, which emphasize biodiversity and ethical farming. In fact, the Romagnolo chicken became Emilia-Romagna’s 19th Slow Food presidium in 2023—a testament to its cultural significance and sustainable future.

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Challenges in Modern Gastronomy

Despite growing interest from high-end restaurants seeking unique flavors, supply remains limited. La Sangiovesa—the iconic osteria in Santarcangelo di Romagna—is one of the few establishments featuring Romagnolo chicken on its menu consistently. With an annual clientele exceeding 80,000 diners, even their self-sufficient production falls short of demand.

“The challenge isn’t just availability,” notes chef Massimiliano Mussoni. “It’s also understanding how to work with such unique meat.” Unlike commercially raised poultry bred for tenderness, Romagnolo chicken boasts firmer muscles due to its active lifestyle. Cooking techniques must adapt accordingly.

Mussoni has mastered this art through extensive experimentation with traditional recipes that honor the bird's robust qualities while celebrating its distinct flavor profile. Whether braised slowly or roasted over open flames, every preparation highlights its authenticity—a far cry from conventional fare.

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Traditional Recipes Reimagined

When available at La Sangiovesa, the Romagnolo chicken takes center stage in dishes that balance innovation with tradition:

• Galantina: A labor-intensive delicacy featuring minced breast meat mixed with giblets (including livers and hearts), truffles, and vegetables. The mixture is wrapped in chicken skin before being simmered for hours in a broth made from its bones.
• Ragù Bianco: This white sauce incorporates giblets like crests for an earthy depth served over handmade garganelli pasta.
• Pollo alla Cacciatora: A rustic classic elevated by slow cooking techniques that tenderize its naturally firm meat.
• Cappelletti Broth: The bird's rich flavor shines through in broths used for cappelletti—pillowy dumplings synonymous with Romagna’s culinary identity.
• Oven-Roasted Chicken with Grilled Finish: Paired with sautéed fresh olives and cardoons for an unforgettable medley of textures.

Mussoni remarks: “Cooking these birds reminds us why tradition matters—it’s not about convenience but about respecting what nature gives us.”

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Beyond Gastronomy: A Symbol of Cultural Resilience

The resurgence of the Romagnolo chicken transcends food; it embodies resilience—of traditions preserved against modern homogenization. It speaks to regional pride rooted deeply within Emilia-Romagna’s history—a place where food is never just sustenance but storytelling.

This humble bird reminds us that true luxury lies not in abundance but authenticity. As global consumers increasingly seek meaningful connections between plate and planet, initiatives like those at Tenuta Saiano offer hope—and inspiration—for sustainable futures worldwide.

In Mussoni's words: “Every bite tells a story—of heritage saved from extinction—and it tastes better knowing we’ve kept something precious alive.”

Photo by Jenny Hill on Unsplash