Discover Etna Bianco: The Allure of Carricante Wine

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Discover the rise of Etna Bianco, a unique white wine from Carricante, reshaping Sicilian viticulture in the shadow of Mount Etna.

The Allure of Etna Bianco: A Journey Through Terroir and Tradition

Mount Etna, with its imposing presence and rich volcanic soils, has long been celebrated for its red wines, particularly those crafted from the illustrious Nerello Mascalese. However, a captivating transformation is underway in the shadow of this iconic volcano. The emergence of Etna Bianco DOC, predominantly made from the native grape Carricante, is reshaping perceptions and expanding the horizons of Sicilian viticulture. As producers experiment with altitude, climate, and soil composition, they reveal the complexities of this unique white wine.

The heart of Carricante’s appeal lies in its adaptability to high-altitude vineyards, where volcanic ash contributes to its mineral character and vibrant acidity. Notably, north Etna, once dismissed for white wine production, is now witnessing a burgeoning interest in Carricante cultivation. This pivot raises intriguing questions: Are these wines merely a response to global trends favoring fine whites? Or do they represent a genuine exploration of terroir that showcases the distinctive qualities of north Etna?

In my recent exploration of north Etna’s winemaking landscape, I visited six esteemed producers across municipalities such as Castiglione di Sicilia and Randazzo. Tasting through an impressive lineup of 40 Etna Bianco samples at Sicily’s en primeur event illuminated the evolving identity of these wines. With their diverse profiles shaped by altitude and climatic conditions, it became evident that north Etna can indeed produce terroir-driven whites worthy of distinction.

Crafting Identity: The Role of Altitude and Soil

A defining feature influencing the character of Carricante is altitude; vineyards perched at elevations exceeding 900 meters (3,000 feet) yield wines with remarkable acidity and depth. The southwest face benefits from extended sunlight exposure until late evening, resulting in fuller-bodied wines with complex flavor profiles. In contrast, the cooler climates on the east side nurture crisp expressions that exude energy and minerality.

During my visit to Tenuta di Fessina, owner and winemaker Jacopo Maniaci emphasized this notion: “North is not Carricante’s homeland,” he explained. “It’s too windy and hot for Carricante on the north side.” Indeed, his meticulous approach to vineyard selection underscores how terroir influences every facet of winemaking—from vine health to fruit expression.

• Soil Composition: In areas like Biancavilla on the southwest face, ancient soils combine clay, limestone, and tufo giallo with volcanic matter to create intricate flavor profiles.
• Climate Variability: Each face of Etna offers distinct climatic conditions—while the east side enjoys moderating sea breezes that enhance acidity, the north side presents challenges that may inhibit optimal ripening.

As I savored Fessina’s two offerings—A’ Puddara Riserva Speciale Vigne Alte SM 2021 and Il Musmeci Bianco Etna Superiore 2021—the contrasting styles became apparent. The former was rich with tropical notes balanced by umami minerality; meanwhile, Il Musmeci exhibited a more restrained intensity marked by saline minerality—a testament to its unique origins.

A New Frontier: North Etna’s Emerging Producers

While historical precedent favors Nerello Mascalese in north Etna’s vineyards, new producers are forging a path for Carricante in this region. Figures such as Guiseppe Russo, known for his commitment to terroir-driven reds, have taken significant steps toward diversifying their plantings by incorporating Carricante into their portfolios.

“Traditionally there is no Carricante here,” Russo noted during our conversation. “Not because it was no good…but because Nerello Mascalese ripened well.” His decision to plant three hectares (7.4 acres) at 630 meters (2,070 feet) reflects a broader trend among producers eager to capitalize on evolving market demands for white wines.

Moreover, newcomers like the Moretti family from Tuscany are adding their touch to north Etna’s landscape by experimenting with field blends that incorporate both Carricante and traditional varieties like Minella Bianca. Their venture into this rocky terrain demonstrates an understanding that success in winemaking often requires embracing local varietals while respecting historical practices.

As I tasted some remarkable wines from emerging producers such as Tenuta Ferrata and Cusumano Family Estates—both showcasing unique interpretations of Carricante—it became clear that these ventures are producing richly textured whites characterized by their saline profiles and appealing bitterness.

In sum, while questions about the identity of north Etna’s Carricante persist amid rapid changes within this vibrant viticultural scene, one certainty remains: as growers continue exploring this uncharted territory through experimentation rooted in tradition, we can expect an exciting evolution within Sicilian white wine—a narrative just beginning to unfold beneath Mount Etna’s watchful gaze.

Photo by Dan Meyers on Unsplash